As the bottom of the boot, Southern Italy is really where you’ll find the country’s sole food. And there’s no better place to find it in London than the utterly transporting Campania, a little sliver of backstreet Italy hiding behind Hackney’s Columbia Road.

The menu changes daily depending on what la nonna Maria’s rolling out, but you can usually pick from around five starters and five mains. At lunchtimes, those two courses (and a glass of wine) will come to a princely £15. From day to day, you might find knots of spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and clams; triangular tortellini stuffed with seasonal veg; pan-fried whole fish, slabs of herb-rubbed meat and rich, boulder-sized meatballs. In other words: serious Italian soul food.